Root Balled Trees

Root Balling Trees Starts around the end of October start of November

Rootballed trees offer a great balance between cost, convenience, and successful establishment—especially for larger or field-grown specimens. Here are the key benefits:

More Established Roots

• Rootballed trees are grown in the ground and lifted with their roots and surrounding soil intact.

• This method preserves the fibrous root system, improving the tree’s ability to establish quickly after planting.

Better Value for Larger Trees

• Compared to container-grown trees of the same size, rootballed trees are often more affordable.

• Ideal for hedging, screening, or planting mature-looking landscapes quickly.

Seasonal Availability Means Fresher Stock

• Because they are only available during the dormant season (typically late autumn to early spring), they’re lifted and delivered fresh, which reduces transplant shock.

Environmentally Friendly

• Wrapped in biodegradable hessian and wire, which can be planted directly into the ground—no plastic pots involved.

Tree Planting Guide

1. Planting the Tree

• Keep the hessian or wire on the root ball. Do not remove it, as it holds the original soil and protects the delicate fibrous roots. Removing it can damage the root system and negatively affect the tree's health.

• If the wire is tightly wrapped near the stem, you may carefully snip it to avoid restricting growth.

2. Site Preparation

• Weed and loosen the soil. Remove all weeds and break up compacted soil to improve drainage.

• Dig a suitable hole:

  • Depth: Match the level of the root ball to the original nursery planting line.

  • Width: Make the hole up to three times the diameter of the root ball.

• Improve the soil:

  • Break up the soil at the bottom and sides of the hole using a fork.

  • Remove stones, clumps, or any debris.

  • Add organic matter and a suitable fertiliser to enrich the soil.

• In wet or waterlogged areas: Consider planting on a slight mound to raise the root zone above the saturated soil. Excess moisture can damage fine roots and lead to root rot or disease.

Staking a Newly Planted Tree

• Remove the nursery stake that came with the tree.

• Use 2 to 3 sturdy stakes (wooden or metal) for support.

• Hold the trunk with your hand to determine where support is needed, then place the stakes accordingly.

• Use soft, flexible ties like canvas strapping or tree staking straps to avoid damaging the bark.

• For most trees, position the stake at one-third the height of the tree. This provides root stability while allowing the stem to move and strengthen naturally.

• For trees with long or flexible stems, use taller vertical stakes initially and lower them in the second year to encourage stem thickening.

• Maintain a 2.5–3 cm (about 1 inch) gap between the trunk and the stake to avoid rubbing and damage.

• Insert stakes on the side of the prevailing wind, so the tree bends away from them, not into them.

Watering and Aftercare

• Water thoroughly and regularly during the first growing season. This is crucial to help the tree establish.

• Drought stress is common, even in cool or wet summers. Surface moisture can be misleading—check deeper soil around the roots.

• Watch for signs of drought, such as dull, limp, or lifeless foliage.

• In windy conditions, trees lose moisture faster, so increase watering accordingly.

• Keep a weed-free zone around the base of the tree. Weeds compete for water and can prevent moisture from reaching the roots.