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Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are among the most graceful plants you can grow — and one of the easiest to spoil with bad pruning at the wrong time. The good news: they need very little. Here is how, and crucially when, to prune a Japanese maple for a healthy, beautiful tree.
Timing is everything with acers. The golden rule: prune when the tree is dormant, in late autumn or winter (roughly November to January). Avoid pruning in late winter and early spring — as the sap rises, fresh cuts bleed heavily and can weaken or even kill branches. A little light shaping in mid-summer is also fine, once the spring growth has hardened.
In short: prune in late autumn or winter for structural work; tidy lightly in summer; never prune during the spring sap-rise.

Acers have a naturally elegant shape — your job is to enhance it, not fight it. Using sharp, clean secateurs:
As a rule, avoid removing more than about a fifth of the canopy in any one year.
Container-grown acers are pruned the same way, with the same timing. A light annual tidy keeps them in proportion to the pot, and pairs nicely with refreshing the top layer of compost in spring.
When is the best time to prune a Japanese maple?
Late autumn to mid-winter, when fully dormant. Light summer shaping is fine; avoid late winter and early spring when the sap is rising.
Can I prune a Japanese maple in summer?
Yes — a light tidy in mid-summer, once new growth has firmed up, is perfectly safe.
Why is my acer dripping sap after pruning?
You have likely pruned in late winter or early spring. Acers bleed heavily then; in future, prune in late autumn or winter instead.
How much can I cut off a Japanese maple?
No more than about a fifth of the canopy in a year — little and often keeps the tree healthy and shapely.
We grow a wonderful range of Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) — from compact patio varieties to established specimens — all UK-grown. Browse the collection to find your perfect acer.
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