Hedge Planting Guide – How to Plant a Hedge Successfully in the UK

This hedge planting guide covers the essentials for planting hedging in the UK, including the best time to plant, how far apart to plant, ground preparation, watering, feeding and aftercare. Follow these steps to help your new hedge establish quickly and grow into a dense, healthy screen.

Whether you’re planting evergreen screening or a more formal, neat hedge, the fundamentals are the same: good ground preparation, correct planting depth, sensible spacing and consistent watering during the first year. Most hedge failures come down to poor preparation or lack of water while plants establish.

Choosing the right hedge (quick guide)

If you’re still deciding which hedge to buy, these are popular UK options depending on what you need:

• Fast, dense evergreen privacy: Laurel hedging (including Cherry Laurel and Portuguese Laurel).
• Very fast screening / tall boundaries: Fast growing hedges, Leylandii hedging and conifer hedging.
• Evergreen alternatives to laurel: Privet hedging, Elaeagnus hedging, Photinia Red Robin and Griselinia hedging.
• Formal, neat hedges: Yew hedging, Box (Buxus), Ilex crenata (boxed leaf holly) and box alternatives.
• Native-style boundaries and wildlife hedges: Native hedging, Hawthorn hedging and Hornbeam hedging.

Once you’ve chosen your hedge, come back to this guide to plant it properly and give it the best start.

Best time to plant hedging in the UK

The best planting time depends on how your hedge is supplied. In the UK, you’ll usually see hedging sold as container-grown (potted), root ball or bare root.

• Container-grown (potted) hedging: can be planted year-round, as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged. Spring and autumn are usually easiest for watering and establishment.
• Root ball hedging: typically planted from autumn through to spring. Root ball plants are ideal for larger sizes and faster impact.
• Bare root hedging: usually planted during the dormant season (typically late autumn to early spring). It’s cost-effective and establishes well when planted correctly.

If you’re planting in summer, it can still be successful with container-grown plants, but you must be prepared to water thoroughly and consistently through dry spells.

Before you start: planning your hedge

• Measure the hedge line: mark out the length and note any changes in height or direction.
• Check boundaries: consider fence lines, neighbours and underground services before digging.
• Choose your target height: this helps you pick the right hedge variety and planting size.
• Decide on single or double row planting: a double row gives faster density, especially in exposed sites.

Preparing the ground for hedging

Ground preparation matters more than plant size. A smaller hedge planted into good soil with consistent watering often outperforms a larger hedge planted into poor ground.

1) Clear weeds and grass

Remove grass and perennial weeds along the hedge line. Weeds compete for water and nutrients, especially in the first year. If the area is weedy, clear a strip at least 45–60cm wide.

2) Improve the soil

Dig over the hedge line or trench and incorporate organic matter to improve structure and moisture retention. In most UK soils, adding compost or well-rotted organic matter helps roots establish faster.

• Clay soils: improve drainage and structure with organic matter. Avoid planting into waterlogged ground.
• Sandy soils: improve moisture retention with organic matter and mulch after planting.
• Chalky soils: most hedges do well if watered and fed correctly, but some plants prefer neutral/acid soils.

3) Check drainage

Poor drainage is a common cause of hedge failures. If water sits on the surface after heavy rain, consider improving drainage, planting on a slight raised ridge, or choosing varieties tolerant of heavier ground.

How far apart to plant hedging

Spacing (plants per metre) affects how quickly your hedge fills in. Planting closer gives faster coverage, but costs more and can increase competition if planted too tightly. As a general guide:

• Smaller plants: 3 plants per metre (approx. 33cm spacing)
• Medium plants: 2 plants per metre (approx. 50cm spacing)
• Larger / instant hedging: 1–1.5 plants per metre (approx. 65–100cm spacing)

For exposed sites or where you want a very thick hedge, consider double row planting (a staggered “zig-zag”): plant two rows about 30–40cm apart, with plants staggered so gaps are filled. This gives quicker density and better wind protection.

Tip: Always check the specific collection for spacing guidance by plant size. For example: Cherry Laurel, Portuguese Laurel, Privet and Yew.

How to plant a hedge (step-by-step)

You can plant hedging either in a trench (best for long hedge lines) or in individual holes (useful for shorter lines or when avoiding obstructions). For most hedges, a trench makes spacing and root establishment easier.

1. Mark out the line: use string and pegs to keep the hedge straight. Mark planting positions with canes or spray paint.
2. Dig a trench or holes: aim for a width of around 30–45cm and deep enough for the rootball/pot without bending roots. Loosen the base of the trench to help roots penetrate.
3. Set planting depth: plant so the top of the rootball sits level with the surrounding soil (or slightly higher on heavy clay). Planting too deep is a common mistake and can slow establishment.
4. Remove the pot (container-grown): gently tease out circling roots if present, especially on pot-grown plants.
5. Backfill and firm: backfill with the improved soil and gently firm around roots to remove air pockets (don’t compact heavily).
6. Water thoroughly: water each plant deeply straight after planting. This settles soil around the roots and starts establishment.
7. Mulch: apply a 5–8cm layer of mulch (bark, composted organic matter, etc.) along the hedge line to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Keep mulch a few centimetres away from the stems.

Watering your hedge after planting

Watering is the single biggest factor in establishment. New hedges need water not just on planting day, but consistently while roots grow into the surrounding soil.

General watering guidance

• First 2–4 weeks: water deeply 2–3 times per week in dry weather.
• First 3 months: water at least weekly during dry spells (more often on sandy soil or in hot/windy conditions).
• First year: water during prolonged dry periods, especially spring and summer.

Water deeply so moisture reaches the root zone. Light sprinkling can encourage shallow roots, which makes plants more vulnerable in dry weather. If you’re planting a long hedge, soaker hoses are an efficient way to water evenly.

Feeding and mulching

Feeding supports healthy growth, but good soil preparation and consistent watering are more important than heavy feeding. A spring feed helps push strong new growth and encourages quicker thickening.

• When to feed: spring is the main feeding period; you can also feed lightly in early autumn if needed.
• What to use: a balanced, general-purpose fertiliser or organic feed (e.g. pellets) works well for most hedges.
• Mulch benefits: mulch reduces weed competition and helps retain moisture, which is especially helpful in the first year.

Pruning and training after planting

Pruning encourages a hedge to thicken. How soon you prune depends on the variety and size you’ve planted, but most hedges benefit from gentle shaping early on.

• Evergreen hedges (e.g. laurel, photinia, griselinia): light pruning once established encourages bushier growth. Avoid cutting back too hard immediately after planting large plants.
• Conifers (e.g. leylandii, thuja): trim regularly to maintain shape; avoid cutting back into old, leafless wood unless you know the plant will break from it.
• Deciduous / native hedges (e.g. hawthorn, hornbeam): formative pruning can encourage branching lower down for a fuller hedge.
• Keep the hedge wider at the base: a slight “A-shape” helps light reach lower branches and prevents thin growth at the bottom.

Common hedge planting mistakes (and how to avoid them)

• Planting too deep: slows growth and can cause decline. Keep the rootball level with the soil surface.
• Inconsistent watering: most failures happen in the first year due to drought stress.
• No weed control: weeds steal moisture and nutrients. Clear a strip and mulch after planting.
• Planting into waterlogged ground: roots need oxygen. Improve drainage or raise the planting line on heavy soils.
• Overfeeding: heavy feeding won’t fix poor watering and can stress plants. Feed sensibly and focus on moisture.

Hedge Planting FAQs

How long does it take for a hedge to establish?

Most hedges take a full growing season to establish roots into the surrounding soil, with noticeable thickening from year two onwards. Larger plants give faster impact, but still require consistent watering while establishing.

Can I plant hedging in clay soil?

Yes, many hedges grow well in clay, but drainage is key. Improve the soil with organic matter and avoid planting when the ground is waterlogged. Consider planting slightly proud of the soil level on heavy clay.

Can I plant hedging in winter?

Yes, winter is ideal for bare root and root ball hedging as long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Container-grown plants can also be planted in winter with sensible aftercare and watering when needed.

How soon will I get privacy?

This depends on plant size, spacing and variety. Planting larger sizes and slightly closer spacing gives quicker screening. Most hedges start to provide good privacy within 1–3 seasons, with full density developing over time.

Browse hedging collections

Ready to choose your hedge? Start here: Evergreen hedging | Fast growing hedges | Laurel hedging | Conifer hedging | Native hedging

Popular choices: Cherry Laurel | Portuguese Laurel | Privet | Photinia Red Robin | Elaeagnus | Yew