01/09/2019
Making the most of a smaller garden is not always an easy task. While design, layout and garden accessories can all play key roles in defining your garden, you will be amazed at the impact something as simple as the shrubs you choose to grow can have on a small outdoor space. 

 

From looking at a few of the best shrubs to plant and exploring the key methods of utilising space, this handy post will help you create a sublime outdoor space and provide everything you need to know about planting a smaller garden. 

 

### How to plant a small garden
 
Despite what you may believe, small gardens have lots of wonderful advantages. Not only do they tend to be far more low-maintenance, they also allow for your creative side to flourish. Even the smallest of additions, be it a well-placed flower bed or a shrub-based colour scheme, can have a dramatic impact.

 

Naturally, the smaller the garden, the fewer plants you can fit in it. However, through finding the right balance of different sized plants and a variety of contrasting colour, making your small garden feel like a much larger space can be easily achieved. 

 

### Limit your choices
 
It’s easy for a small space to become cluttered if there is too much variety. Large focal point plants and a plethora of different vegetation can lead to a cramped and restricted feel to your garden. This can be avoided by limiting your plant choices to just two or three varieties of carefully selected shrubs and keeping colour schemes simple. While this may sound restrictive, it’s worth remembering that even by limiting your choice of different shrubs you will still want to plant a few of each, filling your flower beds and verges easily.

As a rule of thumb, shrubs for small gardens should provide either an eye-catching and consistent bright colour or have an evocative fragrance, but sometimes a combination of both can be found. For example, bella anna hydrangea, festuca, rhododendrons, magnolias and even lavender continue to prove ever-popular choices for small outdoor spaces. However, a great starting point can be found in the form of two lesser used shrubs - asplenium and berberis.

### Asplenium
Asplenium, or hart’s tongue fern as it is also known, is a low-maintenance fern that thrives in either full or partial shade, making it ideal for small gardens. It is renowned for its vibrant green hue and wavy-edged fronds that remain visible throughout the year. The asplenium’s shiny leaves trap and reflect sunlight all year round bringing a glimpse of life to even the bleakest of winter mornings. This can transform a small, cold garden into a vibrant evergreen landscape. Every garden needs a fern and every small garden needs an asplenium. 

### Berberis
With a range of different varieties, from dwarf species, perfect for beds and rock gardens, to larger examples best suited for shrub verges or garden hedge borders, berberis are also ideal for small gardens. Along with their thorny stems, berberis shrubs produce striking foliage and bear small red to yellow berries in autumn, which will inject much needed colour into your garden. Like asplenium, berberis is easy to grow and maintain, ensuring those gardens with limited space can be managed easily, preventing that unwanted cluttered aesthetic so common with smaller outdoor areas.

Using a combination of particular and limited shrub selection along with a disciplined approach to planting your garden, smaller outdoor spaces can be transformed, making it possible for your small garden to feel like a much larger space.

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What are the best shrubs for small gardens?

21/08/2019
Year after year, perennial plants provide UK gardeners with the colour and vibrance they need to brighten up any landscape. Their ability to weather harsh British winters, while at the same time maintaining their attractive foliage, ensure they remain a firm favourite in gardens across the country. 

From radiant hibiscus to lush green heucheras, a well planned perennial garden can provide an ever-evolving variety of flowers for years to come. However, in order for your perennials to prosper, they need to be correctly prepared for winter. Here are the key tips you need to help plant, prune and care for perennials during the winter months.

### Can you plant perennials in winter?
While it is certainly true that perennials will only become the star performers of your flower beds during the summer months, this is not to say planting them in winter is a bad idea. On the contrary, there is absolutely no reason why you should avoid planting your perennials in winter and, in fact, there are actually advantages in doing so.


Unlike annuals - plants that complete their entire life cycle within one growing season - perennials will continue to flourish for at least two years. Subsequently, the winter months become a crucial period in their life cycle as this is the time perennials will typically bed down below rotting leaves and get used to their new surroundings. Indeed, unlike those planted during their summer prime, perennials planted in wintertime won’t need to be watered until the drier conditions are welcomed in with the start of spring. Given the necessary time and attention, as well as the correct methods and approach, perennials planted during the winter months will actually thrive in this cooler climate, perfectly preparing themselves for their summer splendour. 

Image alt text: aster perennial plant in bloom

### How to prune perennials for winter
In order to ensure your perennials continue to prosper and return to their prime during the spring and summer months, winter pruning is essential. Whether you are planting your cirsium or lupin in the dead of winter, or maintaining your prize perennials through their first winter period, there are three key pruning techniques you need to take advantage of:

### Cut back stems, reduce watering and dig up bulbs
As summer turns to autumn, and your perennials have finished for the season, stems should be cut back to between 6 and 8 inches from the ground and watering should be drastically reduced. This will help harden off the plant in preparation for cooler and damp conditions. Sensitive perennial bulbs, such as dahlias, canna and gladiolus, should also be dug up or ‘lifted’ before the first ground frost of the year. These bulbs should be stored indoors and can be replanted in spring.

### Feed plants
Winter is also the perfect time to feed your perennials. Applying a 4 to 6 inch layer of compost is a highly effective method. The compost will release nutrients to the plants, improve the soil structure of your beds, and help replenish your perennials over the winter period.

### Mulch
Finally, when cold weather begins to strike regularly, mulching is essential. Old mulch around the beds of your perennials should be removed and replaced with leaves, straw, grass clippings, bark, sawdust or pine needles. This additional layer provides protection for the more sensitive plants and will insulate your bed. 




These simple techniques will not only help to ensure your perennials survive winter, but they will encourage your plants to actively thrive during this period.

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How to care for perennials in winter

16/07/2019

How to make the most of your small family garden

One of the main things we all look for when buying a new house is a decent sized garden. There’s no better feeling than enjoying a summers night, relaxing in the comfort of your own garden with your nearest and dearest. The garden is a focal point of any home as it’s where many memories are made. Whether it’s a family BBQ or watching the little ones splash about in a paddling pool, a garden is a place to bring everyone together and create the perfect setting for many occasions.

When it comes to the size of a garden, we have to be realistic. We’d all love to have a large area with a luscious lawn and flower beds packed with colourful perennials and shrubs, but this isn’t always the case. More often than not gardens are smaller than what we’d like, but this doesn’t mean you can’t make the most of the space you have. For first time buyers and couples a larger garden isn’t necessarily a top priority, whereas it’s usually a different story for homeowners with children. There is so much you can do to enhance a smaller garden, so don’t let the size deter you from achieving the look you desire.

Here at Grasslands Nursey we know it can be a difficult task caring for both your garden and juggling the tasks of day to day life; especially when children are involved. We want to share some handy tips and useful advice to allow you to not only make the most of a small family garden, but also eliminate the need for a large amount of maintenance.

### Make simple changes to create a bigger appearance
Sometimes a small change can create a deceiving look for the appearance of your garden. One way to make the most of your garden is to use hedging troughs to create more than one area. Placing the troughs around your garden not only breaks up the space, but they’re a great addition as they’re low maintenance. Hedging troughs are a quick win as they deliver the look you’d like almost instantly and only need clipping once or twice a year, meaning they don’t need much attention.

Another way to create a more spacious appearance is to paint any walls or fences you have white. Doing this not only creates a larger feel but it also provides the perfect background for plants, allowing them to stand out and display their vibrant colours.

### Allow the little ones to get hands on
A garden is the perfect place to allow a child’s imagination to run wild and teach them about plant care at the same time. Little ones love to get hands on and there’s no better way than letting them create a fairy garden or bug box. Allowing them to have a small section of a flower bed or overgrown area of the garden, means they can put their own stamp on it and add accessories you no longer need. Whether it’s using stones or ribbon, they can allow their imagination to run wild and enjoy the open air around them.

If you don’t have a lot of space to create flower beds then using pots to house plants not only saves space, but gives the littles ones some responsibility. Before you pot any plants, let the children paint their own design on them and help choose the plants to go inside it. There are a variety of plants that are low maintenance and perfect to help children learn about caring for them.

### Enjoy and make the most of the space you have!
Having a small garden doesn’t mean you can’t make the most of it. We all want to have a place where we can relax and enjoy the beautiful nature and air around us. If you’d like to make the most of your small family garden then we’ve created an eBook full of useful hints and tips to help you achieve the look you’d like.

We’d love to know what you think of our tips and advice within the eBook. Feel free to let us know your thoughts by using #FamilyFriendlyGarden and tagging @Grasslands_.

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How to make the most of your small family garden

### Buxus Or Box
Buxus sempervirens is a true garden classic. Box hedging is a popular evergreen that provides much needed structure. As an architectural plant, Box is the perfect plant for edging borders and using as topiary, withstanding frequent shaping and shearing.

We grow, Buxus sempervirens which has dense small round dark evergreen leaves. It is a slow growing plant achieving around 10 - 15cm in a season.

### Clipping box hedging 
Box hedging can be pruned easily and has the ability to grow from old wood. To maintain trimmed forms and hedges you need to prune them twice a year. The first time should be done around late May to mid-June, after the first growth spurt.

### Dislikes 
Don’t trim box hedging too late in the season, any re growth needs time to ripen fully otherwise it will be vulnerable to frost damage that will allow fungal spores entry into your plants.

Always water from below so that the foliage stays dry. Also don’t use a high nitrogen fertiliser on your box, excessive soft leafy growth will always favour blight, use a more balanced feed instead such as vitax box feed available from the plant food section on this website.

### Box Catterpillars
There is no stopping the march across the U.K. of these greedy little beasts. They are not the kiss of death you read about, you need to keep an eye out especially with the shaped box. A good hard winter will sort the little invaders. If you notice little cobweb-like areas developeing on the outer tips of your bushes, have a poke about and see if they are in there (quite hard to see as they are green) you need to act quickly to kill the little nippers. Unfortunately we are not allowed to sell you the researched cure in this country but good old Amazon has the answer. The product made for this is called Topbuxus xentari. It comes from the jolly Germans with instructions in 50 languages except English. A quick google up on xentari will get you the answers. As soon as it gains the right certificates we will have it available. Perhaps we ought to say that we can't tell you to do this and you should make your own choices. If you are worried spray them with any other catterpillar insecticide and lay it on thick. 

### Box Blight
A nasty we could do without, but it's one of those things, like toadstalls, it just seems to happen if we get the right weather conditions. In the case of buxus it's wet after warm, like you often get in late summer. You should take precautions when you clip them, like dipping the shears in dissinfectant if you suspect there may be a problem between trimming different plants. Our observations are that you don't get anything like the same problems if you only clip the plants when the next couple of days are going to be dry. It seems clipping when the bush is wet, and stays wet and warm, it creates the perfect conditions for blight. Keeping them fed helps,but with proper box feed. Don't be pilling on any old feed as you could kill them with kindness. Little and often is best and again on a dry day and at the base of the plant. We might be making this sound scary so let's stop there and simply say if you are concerned visit the top buxus website and buy yourself a few tubs of the cure.

### Feeding and Planting Box hedging 
Buxus will thrive in shade and full sun alike but take care not to plant in standing water or very wet conditions.When purchasing box plants we recommend also purchasing the vitax box food which is ideal to encourage the plant to grow healthy and also the TopBuxus health which keeps the plants looking green and also helps fight box blight.

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Box / Buxus Hedging Information

23/07/2019
Laurel hedges are extremely popular in the UK because they’re an evergreen plant that are relatively easy to look after. They are happy to grow in the shade, during cold weather and even in heavy clay soil. They also grow quite fast, making them the perfect plant if you’re looking for some privacy. But if you want your [hedging](/hedging-plants) to thrive, it needs to be planted correctly. 

There are a few varieties of laurel hedge. For the purpose of this post, we’ve picked the most popular variation, the cherry laurel hedge, so do check which type you’ve purchased before following our advice.

Below, we’ve summarised when and how to plant a laurel hedge, as well as how quickly it can grow. 

### When should you plant a laurel hedge?
If you’re transferring your laurel hedge from a pot or container into a flower bed, it can be planted at any time of year. However, for the best and fastest results, you should try to plant the hedge around mid-autumn. This will give it enough time to develop its roots before the spring/summer when the weather is much dryer. When it’s first planted, your laurel hedge will require plenty of watering (unless it rains very frequently), particularly during the peak growing season of March to October. 

![How_to_trim_a_laurel_hedge_jpg.webp](https://d7o2odpoz60we.cloudfront.net/How_to_trim_a_laurel_hedge_jpg_d7f85e6cf4.webp)
 
 ### How far apart do you plant laurel hedging?
 You should position each plant two to three feet apart, depending on how quickly you want a dense hedge to form. If you want a thick hedge quickly, plant them two feet apart, otherwise plant them at three feet intervals.
 
 ### How to plant laurel hedging
 First, you should clear the area, taking care to remove any weeds, grass or other plants. Do this with a garden fork or a small trowel. If there are lots of weeds in the area, you can add some weed killer around two weeks before you plant the hedge. This won’t have an effect on the laurel, but the weed killer will make sure any weeds in the surrounding area are dead. 

Then you should dig the holes for your hedges. It’s a good idea to dig a hole that’s twice the width of the hedge’s base - you can fill this in later. When you dig the hole, ensure that you churn up the soil at the bottom so the roots can bury down more easily. If your soil is particularly hard or sandy, add some loam-based compost to the bottom of the hole. For normal soil, add some controlled-release feed that will give the plant a head start for growing. 

Once you’ve prepped the hole, it’s time to put the plant in. Wiggle the plant slowly out of its current container and place it in the middle of the hole. Make sure the top of the roots are one or two inches below the surface of the soil. 
Refill the hole with soil and gently press down with the sole of your foot to secure the soil around the base of the hedge.

### How fast do laurel hedges grow?
Given the right conditions, a laurel hedge can grow up to two feet a year. This can depend on the soil type, whether it’s in sunlight or shade and how sheltered from the wind it is.

With plenty of water, your laurel hedge should thrive and reward you all year long


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How to plant a laurel hedge


Revamping your garden can be such an exciting task. You can begin to think about the design of your patio or that vegetable garden that you’ve wanted to create for years. But before you can do any of these things, you need to consider both hard and soft landscaping and how they can work together in the space you’ve got. 

If you haven’t heard of hard or soft landscaping before, we cover everything you need to know in this handy post to help you create a sublime outdoor space. 

### What is hard landscaping?
Hard landscaping is the ‘hard’ components of your garden that help to make up the general layout and structure. It encompasses paving, decking, brick walls, fences, pathways, etc. It’s a way to describe the elements of your garden that are permanent and that won’t often be replaced or changed. 

Generally, hard landscaping doesn’t include anything living, such as grass or shrubs, however it can include large trees and hedges, as these are features  that make up the structure of your garden and are unlikely to be moved.

When it comes to landscaping a garden, you should always consider the hard landscaping first. It forms the basis of the garden’s structure and will remain the same for a long time. 

This means that before you buy any plants, you need to plan your layout. Think about the purpose of the garden. Do you want a quiet corner where you can sit with a book or do you want a large empty space where the children can run around? You should consider where you want your pathways to go - and whether you want a curved or a straight path - and decide if you want a pond or another similar feature to act as a focal point. These things will all impact on how your garden is laid out. 

Once you’ve decided on these things, you need to think about the more technical aspects of your landscape, such as drainage, pipework and guttering. Do you know where all the pipes are? Does your house need drainage installing? These are important layout features that should be considered before you start to add borders or grass.

### What is soft landscaping?
Soft landscaping is more what you may consider general gardening. Once you’ve laid out the structure, soft landscaping is the flowers, grass, shrubs, soil, mulch etc. that you include. These things all help to ‘soften’ the landscape and can be used to connect the hard elements like the fences, walls and pathways. 

Soft landscaping should always come after hard landscaping, and it’s a step that shouldn’t be rushed.

![thumbnail_Grasslands-social-image_png.webp](https://d7o2odpoz60we.cloudfront.net/thumbnail_Grasslands_social_image_png_21890b2ada.webp)

Make sure you take the time to get to know your garden. For example, is there a particular corner that doesn’t get a lot of sunshine? Or maybe there’s a particular corner that rainwater drains to which could drown any plants that were in a border. Thinking of things in advance could save you money in the long run as your plants are more likely to survive if you’ve thought about the conditions they’ll be in. It’ll also help your plants to thrive. 

You should carefully consider which **shrubs** you want to plant. Remember to ensure that you have a balance between evergreen and deciduous plants to keep your garden looking full all year round. 

As with hard landscaping, you should also think about the purpose of your garden. Do you want a wild garden that encourages bees and other insects to thrive? Or do you want a neat, orderly space that’s full of easy-to-maintain perennials and plants? 

There are lots of questions to consider, but they will help you to narrow down your options to create a truly beautiful landscaped garden.

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What is hard and soft landscaping?

### Bamboos
Are very desirable garden plants. They can make large clumps that are ideal as focal points or for adding structure to borders. They can look unsightly if left to grow unhindered, and may become invasive. But keeping plants under control and attractive is easy with some simple routine maintenance.The leaves are borne on small branches which encircle the canes. In spring there is considerable yellowing of the leaves followed by some leaf drop. This is normal as new leaves are produced. Some of the old leaves often become papery and brown and stay attached to the plant long after they are finished.
 
### Growing and Planting
You should immerse new plants in water immediately, by first taking them out of the pot. Dig the planting hole so that the rootball sits slightly deeper than the original depth allowing a thin covering of soil over the top of the original surface. Firm well when back filling the planting hole. Being very shallow rooted they appreciated a good thick mulch of bark, compost, manure or leaf mould. Keep well watered for the next 3 - 6 months until well established, then during any prolonged dry spells. It is essential to thoroughly wet the soil so that the water penetrates down to the roots never sprinkle. Try to give protection from cold drying winds which can desiccate the leaves.
 
### Pruning bamboos
With a little effort it is easy to keep bamboos looking good and prevent them from becoming a nuisance in the garden. In spring, remove any weak, dead, damaged or spindly canes, cutting them to ground level with secateurs or loppers. At the same time remove any debris at the base of clumps. To show off plants to their best, remove some of the foliage from the bottom of the canes. Either snap the side branches off with a swift downward motion (wearing gloves) or cut them back with secateurs, pruning as close to the main cane as possible to leave a smooth finish.

### Feeding Bamboo
This can be done late spring and summer with a general purpose granular fertiliser and re-new the mulch layer.

### Likes
Bamboos are fantastic shrubs that can be used in a whole range of different ways to create stunning results in your garden. They are fast growing and certain varieties can reach up to five metres in height, meaning these woody perennial evergreens can be ideal if you’re looking to create an attractive year-round privacy screen. With their distinctive, exotic look, these plants will give you that jungle feel in your garden. They are also hardy and easy to care for.

### Dislikes
Bamboos do not like being left to dry out they always need to be in moist or damp conditions to help them thrive at their best. Bamboos are usually trouble-free, but may occasionally suffer from rust or root rots. In some years, bamboo aphids may become a problem.

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Bamboo Hedging Help & Information

**Acer or Japanese Maple**
Increasing numbers of new and interesting forms almost by the month. They range from dwarf shrubs up to small trees.

No garden is complete without the beauty of a Japanese maple. The colour in the Autumn alone is enough to warrant their use, add that to the pleasure the delicate foliage moving gently in a summer breeze, and you have perfection for 9 months of the year.

The dissectum varieties are better for smaller shrubs forming domes of arching deeply cut leaves. Once you have one you will want more and more.

Acers that can tolerate more sun - although the odd leaf still may scorch in the hot sun. The red varieties prefer more sun as the red is stronger

beni hime - red

kamagata - green

red pygmy - red

seiryu - green

Acers that prefer the shade, they can go a little in the sun but can get scorched:

asahi zuru

orange dream

tsuma beni

ukigumo

**Growing and Planting**
They are easy to grow and prefer a little dapple shade and a site out of strong winds. Best planted in slightly acidic soil and not too wet. 

If your soil is not acidic, including some peat in the backfill is enough. 

They are also the perfect plant for a pot. If they are in a pot remember to wrap the pot well in Winter or take inside to stop the frost killing the roots.

When watering acers they need it consistent, you can't afford to let the dry out and then increase the water to compensate for the lack of water. Ideally, they would be best having a bit daily or get them in the soil rather than a pot. 

### **Pruning Japanese maples**
You should consider doing it in Autumn/Winter when the sap is falling as doing it in spring can make them bleed too much and it is possible to lose entire limbs.

If it is essential, do it, use the wound seal treatment on the cut. It's not a bad idea to get into the habit of using wound seal every time you cut into an acer.

### **Feeding Acers**
Too much as it tends to increase salt levels in the leaves which will cause scorch. Use little and often and use the organic chicken pellets or the ericaceous food. 

 

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Japanese Maple Help & Information

## A rough guideline to pot sizes for when digging holes



1 Litre 13cm dimeter 11cm high

2 Litre 17cm diameter 13cm high 

3 Litre 19cm diameter 15cm high

4 Litre 20cm diameter 16.5cm high

5 Litre 22.5cm diameter 18cm high

7 Litre 25cm diameter 20cm high

10 Litre 28cm diameter 22.5cm high

15 Litre 33cm diameter 30cm high

20 Litre 35.5cm diameter 32.5cm high

25 Litre 38.5cm diameter 35cm high

30 Litre 41cm diameter 36cm high

40 Litre 50cm diameter 45cm high 

50 Litre 55cm diameter 50cm high

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Plant Pot Size Guide

### Fagus or Beech
A traditional english hedge, it has lovely green or copper purple, oval foliage that changes to yellow and then a rich russet brown in Autumn. They do tend to keep hold of some of the leaves during the Winter months but they are mainly a deciduous plant. The leaves then start to bud up round February / March time and the leaves open from April onwards depending on the weather.

### Clipping Beech
Beech hedging should be pruned once or twice a year depending on how quickly it grows. In the second year of being planted it will grow quicker as it becomes more established. We would suggest pruning the hedge with loppers or if you have the time using secateurs as it will leave the hedge looking tidier.

### Feeding Beech Hedge
The best feed for beech hedging is bonemeal and fish blood and bone, this can be done through out the growing season, normally in late Spring and again late Summer

### Dislikes
The beech hedging doesn't really have any dislikes other than it doesn't want to sit wet. If you do have a wet flower bed you would be best looking at [hornbeam](https://www.grasslands.co.uk/plant-help-and-advice/hornbeam-hedging-information).

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Beech Or Fagus Hedging Information

Maintaining your tree efficiently means preventing the branches from overgrowing. If you don’t do this frequently enough, your trees will not only become messy and unpleasant to look at, but there’s also a risk that they’ll become a serious hazard, especially if they’re reaching over fences into neighbouring gardens or growing dangerously close to buildings in the surrounding area.

Actively pruning your trees will help to prevent any potential dangers your tree could cause whilst also enhancing the appearance of your garden. If done correctly, pruning can even make your trees healthier, as it allows for dying or overgrown branches to be removed, encouraging the growth of the remaining healthy branches.

The only thing to be wary of when pruning is that you’re doing it correctly, as it would be a shame to waste time and potentially damage your tree by getting this wrong. Giving you the lowdown on pruning, this post will help you to make sure that your tree flourishes.

![418.jpeg](https://d7o2odpoz60we.cloudfront.net/418_05e6f9b74d.jpeg)

### How to prune trees correctly
Prior to cutting anything on your tree, it’s important to establish why you’re looking to prune it. Every reason is met by an appropriate technique, so it really depends on whether you’re pruning your tree to reduce the amount of shade in your garden, decrease the height or enhance the appearance of your tree, or to remove all overgrown branches to make it healthier.

To envisage how you want your tree to look after pruning, it would be best to look at it beforehand and plan what you will be cutting off. At this stage, you can also establish where the main skeleton of the tree is, as this part should be avoided to allow for the tree to grow naturally.
Your main priority is to remove any branches that look damaged or unhealthy first, as these parts may be at risk of breaking. Getting rid of these branches first is good for your tree, as the water and nutrients within will be distributed to other branches that need them.
It would then be important to look at potential hazards that you could neutralise through pruning, with the main one being cutting down any branches that edge towards fences, buildings or power lines. You’re now able to be more selective with what you prune. For example, you could consider getting rid of any branches that cross other branches and any sections that are overpopulated with branches, preventing any potential issues with the tree’s circulation of water and nutrients.

A lot of trees that have been professionally pruned will present an oval design, but it’s rare that this is something created naturally. It’s a common misconception that a tree will completely regrow as long as there’s a stump, with it actually being important that you keep hold of as much of the tree as possible.

Every time you open up a section of the tree by removing a branch, you’re increasing the risk of insects and fungus entering it, in the same way that an open wound is at risk of infection in a human. With this in mind, it would be strongly advised to avoid trimming more than 25 per cent of the tree’s branches and to be sparing with how much you choose to remove.

### When to prune trees
Believe it or not, when you choose to prune your trees is a massive factor in the tree’s growth and development. Any changes to the tree will lead to a different reaction, so it’s important to identify what type of change you’re hoping for before you make any major alterations to it.

Pruning your tree in a specific season will lead to a different outcome in the following season. For example, if you were to trim your tree in the summer, the growth of the branch you pruned will be slowed down in the autumn. This would be an appropriate course of action if you were hoping to reduce the size of your tree during this season, especially as it would decrease the number of leaves shed during autumn.

The whole process works in reverse too, meaning that if you were to prune your tree in the winter, your tree would be likely to flourish in the spring, with the branches and leaves growing at an accelerated rate.

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How to prune a tree

###### Site preparation

Eliminate weeds and loosen the soil to improve drainage and compaction. Dig a hole to a depth to allow planting at the same level as the nursery line and up to 3 times the diameter. Break up the soil with a fork at the bottom and sides of the hole before planting. Remove any debris, stones or clods of earth etc. Improve fertility by incorporating organic matter and a suitable fertiliser into the soil. If waterlogged over winter consider plating on a slight mound as excess moisture can kill finer roots and cause disease and root rot.

###### Guide to planting
Remove plants from the container tease out and carefully spread the roots. Soak thoroughly in a bucket of water prior to planting. Place in the planting hole and then fill the hole carefully placing the improved soil all around the roots firming up as you go eliminating any air pockets. If possible apply a layer of mulch of bark, well rotted manure or compost around the base of the plant leaving a collar around the trunk to prevent the bark from rotting.

###### Watering and Aftercare

Water well and regular for the first growing season. Drought stress is common with newly planted trees and shrubs. Even in a cool damp summer the rain rarely replenishes the soil moisture fully. The soil may be dry around the roots even when the surface appears moist. Windy conditions are especially likely to lead to water shortages with dull lifeless foliage an indication or drought stress. Irrigate regularly to prevent damage. Keep the diameter around the plant free from weeds as they will intercept the water before it has chance to get to the planted roots.

###### Common Problems

**Planting too deep** is a common cause of tree death. Take care to plant at the same depth that it was growing in the nursery pot.

**Poor establishment** can occur if there is unfavourable weather, poor soil conditions and aftercare with leaves turning yellow or brown.

**Wind rock** of unsecured trees and large shrubs will damage roots and leave a space for rain water to collect leading to fatal root rotting. Always stake large plants to avoid this happening.

**Insufficient water** in the first year after planting is the main cause of poor establishment.

**Excessive** water in poorly drained waterlogged soil is just as likely to cause damage.

**Larger specimens** require greater aftercare with special attention paid to watering and can take two or three seasons to fully establish.

###### Staking

If your new tree needs staking, you must remove the nursery stakes, and find two or three stakes (wooden or metal). Place your hand on the trunk and see where it needs to be steadied. Use a soft material, like canvas strapping or tree staking straps, to attach the stakes.

For most trees the stake should be one-third of the height of the tree. This anchors the roots and allows the stem to sway and thicken .For tress with long or flexible stems use long, vertical stakes, cutting it lower in the second year.

There should be a gap of 2.5-3cm (about an inch) between the stem and the stake.

Stakes should be inserted on the side of the prevailing wind so that the tree is blown away from the stake

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Planting Shrubs & Trees

### Berberis - Barberry
Make a lovely barrier with there little thorny spikes. They can be evergreen and deciduous plants, but the important thing to remember is that the prickles are there all year round. Perfect to stop dogs or unwanted strangers. They have small spiney foliage in greens, purples that change colours going into Autumn and Winter. The flowers are berberis are small and delicate but are pretty. Often followed by fruits for the birds who also love to nest inside this prickly plant as it is perfect for protection. They prefer a nice sunny position if possible as this will encourage the plants to fruit.

### Clipping Berberis Hedging
With Berberis being so prickly it might be best to prune little and often that way it doesn't get away from you and you have to start getting inside the plant to prune as you would be very sore by the time you have finished.

### Feeding Berberis
General plant foods are good normally we suggest using chicken pellets as this way you can't over do it.

### Dislikes
Berberis doesn't like to be waterlogged, other than that it can be exposed or in a sheltered site, clay, chalk, sand or loamy soils. It can be planted in shade but like it says above you might not have as many fruits.

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Berberis Hedging Information

### Griselinia Or New Zealand Broadleaf
These are upright evergreen shrubs that have simple, oval glossy green leaves and yellowish green flowers. On the female plants they have very small purple fruits when they are grown on mass.

They are ideal for seaside gardens as they don't enjoy hard frosts. If you do want to plant them North of Birmingham we do suggest they go in a sheltered site, urban gardens are usually much warmer so they are normally fine.The foliage tips can go black in a cold winter so we suggest feeding them with sulphate of potash in Autumn to toughen the stems against frost damage.

There are are couple of varities that we tend to grow, 

Griselinia Green Horizon which is a newer variety that is hardier in the colder locations. They have the luxuriant glossy green foliage

### Pruning Griselinia
They don't need much pruning just once a year around late spring to early summer and then just any regular pruning of untidy branches throughout the year.

### Dislikes
Really cold areas.

### Feeding Griselinia
All you need is a multi purpose granula feed such as chicken pellets or blood fish and bone. This can be done when they start to grow and again in the Summer. You can normally see when the plants are hungry as the colour would start to fade and not the glossy green they are usually.

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Griselinia Hedging Information

### Carpinus Or Hornbeam
A traditionl english hedger and a good alternative to beech. It has very attractive green foliage that changes to yellow in the autumn and bears hop like fruit clusters in late summer and autumn. Unlike beech hedging, hornbeam likes the soggy - woodland sites that most hedges don't.

### Pruning Carpinus
You only need to prune carpinus once a year and you are best doing it late summer to encourage them to retain there foliage during the winter months. Always start trimming the hedge at the top and working your way down to your desired height.

### Dislikes
Carpinus don't really have any dislikes they are very easy to grow and don't normally have any problems

### Feeding Carpinus
You can feed Carpinus with a general purpose feed such as bonemeal or chicken pellets you can do this in spring and again in summer.

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Hornbeam Hedging Information

### Prunus Rotundifolia Or Cherry Laurel 
If you want an evergreen screen or privacy in a hurry, these are for you! Laurels are an extremely popular species made up of numerous trees, shrubs and hedging plants. Their practicality and aesthetic appearance come second to none as they are seen in thousands of gardens throughout the UK. Each type of laurel has a unique set of characteristics. That can be utilised to help you achieve a range of gardening goals. With an abundance of practical advantages, added interest and ability to grow in challenging environments, Laurel hedging should certainly be a major contender when considering garden hedge ideas.

There are a few options in laurels that we find are the easiest and nicest varities to work with:

**Prunus Rotundifolia** otherwise known as Cherry Laurels are evergreen hedges. They are part of the cherry laurel family. They have large, glossy apple coloured foliaged. They produce fruits that look a little bit like cherries and make a fantastic evergreen hedge. Laurels can grow up to 3ft a year, and can reach a ultimate height of 5 meters at full maturity.

**Prunus Novita** is a great option for the colder, more exposed locations this variety is grown to be more reslialint to the cold harsh environments. They are still fast growing and have the luxury dark green leaf colour. Height if left alone can reach 6m.

**Prunus Etna** - is a dwarf vareity of the popular Cherry Laurel only reaching 2.5m high and can easily be maintained at lower height. The foliage is a drak glossy green leaf with new growth a glossy coppery orange colour.

### Pruning cherry laurels
A Laurel hedge will need trimming at least twice a year, we would suggest using secateurs as it keeps the plants looking tidy or for a quick ob trimmers can also be used. They are quite easy to maintain you should trim your laurel hedge in late spring or early summer as the hedge will produce new shoots very quickly at this time of year which is great as it will cover up any leaves that are left looking “tatty” after using a hedge trimmer. 

### Feeding Cherry Laurels 
Cherry laurels need a general purpose feed such as chicken pellets or bone meal. Fertilizing once a year will help keep the foliage green and lush and also maintain prolific white, fragrant blooms.

### Likes
Cherry laurels will tolerate most conditions with the exception of wet and chalky soils and they will thrive in sun or shade, so they are perfect to plant in any part of your garden!

### Dislikes
Cherry laurels will not thrive very well in wet or chalky soils. With chalky or clay soils the drainage is very poor and cherry laurels cannot sit in wet, poor drained soil. This can cause leaves to turn yellow. No other reason will make the leaves turn yellow so quickly. The roots of a laurel plant will rot if they sit in waterlogged conditions for a long period of time.

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Laurel Hedging Help & Information

### Leylandii
If you want an evergreen screen or privacy in a hurry, these are for you. You either love them or hate them, but there is no other form of hedging that will do the job as quick and economically.

There are two branches to the family and they are variations of green or golden coloured.

Golden leylandii grow 20% slower than green leylandii. Golden ones are ideal for the smaller garden

The green varities can reach 90cm of growth in one year. They will grow huge left un-cut and will easily achieve 20 metres in 20 years.

### Before Buying Leylandii
If you are planting them close to a neighbour you should seek advice on whether you now need planning permission. There has been a lot of bad press about them and they are not for the small urban garden. They are for large sites where you need to hide something from view.

### Pruning Leylandii
The speed of growth dictates that you need to cut them a couple of times per year to keep them bushy and to stop the need to prune them too hard. You should never prune them beyond the green foliage as once you get to the brown of the branches they will never re-grow from the wood. It is also important to keep anything temporary from making contact with the plant as this too will turn the plant brown where the foliage is covered. This includes allowing trash to grow under the base. Sharp shears or hedge cutters and trim gentley.

### Feeding Leylandii
Give them plenty of organic fertilizer in early spring to get them to the height. Once they have reached your desired height leave them to fend for themselves.

### Dislikes
There is not really anything that they dislike. They grow in all soils and most positions. If you have deep shade use Thujas. Apart from poor clipping they are trouble free.

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Leylandii Hedging Information

### Photinia Red Robin or Christmas Berry
Evergreen dense, medium growing shrubs with an upright bushy habbit. They have lovely green glossy foliage with new growth being a nice bright red later before maturing. In Spring they do bear creamy white flowers rather sparsley accross the shrub - they flower more if they are planted in full sun.

It can be easily trimmed into shape which also encourages new red growth. As with all evergreens come Winter you will see them loose some leaves that have gone yellow - to brown then drop off, these will be replaced in Spring.

They tend to grow roughly 30cm / 1 foot a year

### Pruning Photinia Hedging
Photinias do need pruning to keep them looking tidy and so you can achieve the height and bushiness you need. They should be pruned in spring and a general tidy up later on in summer.

When they flower this can take a lot of energy away from the plant so you might want to consider pruning these off or feeding well. 

### Feeding Photinia
Photinias can be fed upto 4 times a year with an all purpose granula feed such as chicken pellets or bonemeal.

### How To Grow
The Photinia doesn't really have any dislikes as it can be grown it sheltered or exposed areas and from loamy soils to clay soil in acidic or neutral.

Sometimes black spots appear on photinia leaves this only due to the extremly cold weather but they can be removed and new ones will come through.

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Photinia Hedging Information

### Why choose pleached trees? 
First thing is to consider is what you need these big plants for, your relationship with your neighbours and if you have them how it will be received.

If you think they are going to love the idea and want to help maintain the hedge/screen then you can use pleached trees right up to the boundary and they are very good at saving space.  

You can garden under them whilst still blocking out a view. If you think, and it is nearly always the case, that you will be looking after them yourself you must leave room to get to the back to allow trimming. That's your choice and depends on your stature.

If all you want to do is hide and help make last an ugly fence or wall you could use the wall frames.  

They instantly take you out of that imprisoned feeling that 6 foot fence panels create without gobbling up 6 feet of border, which is what a laurel hedge can do if you don't keep it hard trimmed

Planting Pleached trees
We always recommend that you erect a rail to sit about 2/3rds the way up the clear stem. eg; 2 metre stem rail at 150/60cm off the floor.

The rail can be independently secured buy a post every 2.5/3m.

If you are in a very windy spot use a second rail midway between the top and the floor to give the plant more anchorage and reinforce the support posts. To the face of the rail you need to fix rubber tree pads and belts to stop the rail rubbing the trunk and to strap the trunk to. (make sure the nails heads are sunk into the pad so they don't scratch at the bark)

Best to do this once you have positioned the plants and it's a good idea to know where you are going to be digging the hole for the plant as you don't want to be digging where you have just banged in the posts.

Some people like to leave the plants in big planters or pots, the same method of support is best used for them as well. Posts are more important to get in the right spot than the rail, as you can simply over or under lap the rail when starting the next rail.

Position the plant upright and fix the pad and belt and you're all but there.

Sometimes the frame incorporates the cane or post that is already in with the plant. If it's part of the structure, leave it and tie it in with the trunk to your support frame, if not choose yourself if it is needed or not.

### How to care for pleached trees.
Pleached wall frames hardly need any support especially if they have a wall or fence behind them.

### Looking after them and getting them established.
For the first season you will need to tie in the branches at regular intervals to get them used to the shape of the frame and trim off spare growth you don't want.

Once these branches strengthen up and you have the effect you are lookig for you will be able to clip the next seasons growth a couple of times a year to keep them to the shape you desire.

### Feeding pleached trees.
Feed them in the spring taking care to read the instructions on the rate of application and give them water when they need it. Obviously if they are in pots you will need to do this far more often.

 

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Pleached Plants & Standards

### Prunus Lusitanica or Portuguese Laurels 
Evergreen hedges. They are part of the cherry laurel family. A fantastic alternative as they do not grow as fast, have a more formal appearence and just as easy to grow.

They do make great hedges and they are easy to grow as they can be grown in moist well drained soils , then even thrive in poor shallow chalky soils.

There are a few varities that we grow

Prunus Brenlia - it is very similar to Angustifolia variety but has larger leaves. The stalks and new stems are rich burgundy red throughout the year. It grows moderately and very dense into a regular, pyramidal shrub.

Prunus Lusitanica - has narrow, pointed, deep-green glossy leaves borne on striking, maroon-coloured stems. Small, fragrant white flowers blossom in summer 

### Prunus Lusitanica Myrtifolia / Angustifolia - it has longer and narrower leaves grown on reddish purple stems giving it an interesting appearance and providing some additional colour during the year. 

### Pruning Prunus Hedging
They are very easy to prune and need to be done about twice a year. Once trimmed they form a lovely shaped hedge, looking very formal.

### Dislikes
Prunus lusitanica don't really have any dislikes as they are happy to be grown in cold and exposed sites, heavy clay soils, even suitable for full shade.

### Feeding Prunus
They need just a general purpose feed such as chicken pellets or bonemeal this can be done twice a year

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Portuguese Laurel Hedging Information

### Pyracantha or Firethorn
If you need to stop a lion eating your livestock, plant Pyracantha. There have been many burglars claiming damages from householders for using them to stop them getting in to their properties. They are viciously prickly, but particularly attractive.

In winter the whole plant becomes covered in bunches of jewel like berries that provide a mass of food for the birds. Whilst not completely evergreen they will hold onto most of their bright green leaves until spring, it’s quite normal for them to suddenly cast off most of their old leaves as the new buds burst. Plant them close together and within a year or two they will be completely impenetrable.

### Pruning Pyracantha
Trim them back immediately after flowering and again in late summer. Avoid cutting off the flower/fruiting clusters for the best winter show.

### Feeding Pyracantha
They have a tendency to fruit so hard that they stress themselves, so a good low nitrate autumn feed will set them up for the fruit and then a feed again in spring

### Dislikes
They will grow anywhere, but in the full sun they will grow faster and fruit better.

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Pyracantha Hedging Information

### Taxus or Yew
There is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Taxus but only really Baccata are mass grown for evergreen hedging. They are a little slow growing, so buy as big as you can afford, but once established they make a perfect formal hedge.

The foliage is a lovely dark green, very dense and the plant can be clipped to any shape or height. There is a flush of growth in spring and a second smaller flush in late summer. The new growth is much lighter green and matures to the darker green with age. In winter, and on the female bushes, the classic red, squidgy yew berries are an important winter feed for birds. These should be pointed out to small children as the seeds could make them ill if eaten.

### Pruning Yew
Yew can be kept in check with a pair of shears or a hedge cutter and is best done on a cool day in summer between the two growth flushes.

### Feeding Yew hedging
Give them plenty of organic fertilizer in early spring to get them to the height. Once they have reached your desired height a light feed of fish, blood and bone will keep them looking green. Any other general purpose plant food is fine, but always read the label and under feed rather than over feed.

### Dislikes
They do not like being stood in wet soil, so if you have wet ground and want to establish a yew hedge, sort the drainage out first. Apart from that they are easy to get growing in all soils and situations.

 

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Yew Hedging or Taxus Information

### Thuja or Western Red / White Cedar
For an evergreen conifer hedge or large screen there is nothing better. Thuja stand clipping very well and un-like leylandii can recover if you get a little ambitious with the cutter. When you brush the bright green foliage the scales release an enjoyable scent of spice. The bright green new growth turns darker with age and bronzes in winter. They thrive well in shade as well as sun. Thuja will grow about 45-60cm each year.

There are a few different thuja options depending on the look you are after;

Thuja Emerald - this is an elegant form with tightly knit bright green foliage. Has a more defined shape

Thuja Brabant - light yellowish green foliage that takes a bronze tinge during the winter months. 

Thuja Excelsior - has dark green shiny foliage, sometimes a bronze tinge again in winter.

### Thuja Atrovirens - rich green foliage

All variieties grow at a similar speed and respond well to same aftercare

### Clipping Thuja
Prune them once a year and then do a tidy up again later in the season to keep them looking smart. As they are easy to maintian it can be done with hedge cutters or shears 

### Feeding Thuja's
Give them plenty of organic fertiliser in early spring to keep them looking lush.

### Dislikes
They don't want to stand in water other than that they will grow anywhere and all soils. Virtually trouble free.

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Thuja Hedging Information

### Bare Root Hedging 

It's only for a starter sized hedge and when thinking on this option you should read all this section. There is a risk to bare root plants, can we repeat that again in case you skimmed over it There is a risk with bare root plants. You will lose some and if you are neglectful or unlucky you could lose most of them. If you follow these few tips on looking after your plants, the weather is kind to you and do your best - you might not lose any. You should buy at least 20% extra and plant them in a pot in the soil away from the hedge to replace any that fail. If you want to save a possible fortune on a hedge, then you ought to have a try with the bare root. 


**Planting bare root:**
Get ready before you take delivery, you don't really want them hanging about un-planted for a long period. As soon as you have received your delivery it is important to get them planted as soon as possible. If they are not planted within a few days make sure the roots do not dry out so give them a good soaking at the base every day or earth over the roots for longer preservation. You must cut back the top 1/3 of last year’s growth to compensate the fact that have likely lost at least the same number of roots when they are dug for you from the field. Certain lines are easier than others to establish


The trickier ones are beech and yew. Treat them with particular care, neither like to sit in wet soil and can easily rot in the root. If your site lays very wet pick carpinus for beech and think again about yew. Make sure the soil is free draining and well prepared - broken down and fertile. Don't plant too deep - if you look at the stem you can see the original soil level it was at before dug, that's your planting/ground level. Yew like a very well drained site, you can prepare this with added grit/gravel and plant them in a slightly raised planting bed, so water drains away better.


Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind. Firm the soil around the plant to make sure the roots have good contact with your soil. With taller bare root plants, they should be securely staked with a cane and a suitable tie. As with all new planting water in as soon as they are planted and keep them well watered in dry times for the first growing season. Come the spring and the plants are establishing themselves, you must keep away any unwanted grass and weed from the new plants as will compete for moisture and food. Don't let them dry out in dry weather during the first season after planting.


**Fagus - Beech**
Is a traditional English hedger, it has lovely green or copper purple, oval foliage that changes to yellow and then a rich russet brown in Autumn. They do tend to keep hold of some of the leaves during the Winter months, but they are mainly a deciduous plant. The leaves then start to bud up round February / March time and the leaves open from April onwards depending on the weather. This can grow into a specimen sized tree, but we do recommend that you maintain it to the desired height Clipping Beech Hedging Beech hedging should be pruned once or twice a year depending on how quickly it grows. In the second year of being planted it will grow quicker as it becomes more established. We would suggest pruning the hedge with loppers or if you have the time using secateurs as it will leave the hedge looking tidier. Dislikes The beech hedging doesn't really have any dislikes other than it doesn't want to sit wet. If you do have a wet flower bed you would be best looking at hornbeam. Feeding Beech Hedge The best feed for beech hedging is bonemeal or fish blood and bone, this can be done throughout the growing season, normally in late Spring and again late Summer


**Buxus sempervirens**
A true garden classic. Box hedging is a popular evergreen that provides much needed garden structure. As an architectural plant, Box hedging is the perfect border plant, withstanding frequent shaping and shearing. Box hedges look stunning planted around flower borders and vegetable gardens and can also be grown as a standalone feature plant. Buxus or box as it is commonly known is the ideal plant for formal hedges or hedging as well as being the topiary plant of choice at hundreds of stately homes and gardens. Buxus sempervirens has dense small round dark evergreen leaves. It is a slow growing plant achieving around 10 - 15cm in a season. Buxus Sempervirens should be trimmed in mid-summer. Clipping box hedging Box hedging can be pruned and has the ability to grow from old wood. To maintain trimmed forms and hedges you need to prune them twice a year. The first time should be done around late May or mid-June, after the first growth spurt. Dislikes don’t trim box hedging too late in the season, any re growth needs time to ripen fully otherwise it will be vulnerable to frost damage that will allow fungal spores’ entry into your plants. Always water from below so that the foliage stays dry. Also don’t use a high nitrogen fertiliser on your box, excessive soft leafy growth will always favour blight, use a more balanced feed instead such as vitax box feed available from the plant food section on this website.


**Carpinus - hornbeam**
A traditional English hedger a good alternative to beech. It has very attractive green foliage that changes to yellow in the Autumn and bears hop like fruit clusters in late Summer and Autumn. Unlike the beech hedging it likes the soggy - wood land sites that most hedges don't. Trimming Carpinus You only need to prune carpinus once a year and you are best doing it late Summer to encourage them to retain their foliage during the Winter months. Always start trimming the hedge at the top and working your way down. Dislikes Carpinus don't really have any dislikes they are very easy to grow and don't normally have any problems
Feeding Carpinus You can feed Carpinus with a general-purpose feed such as bonemeal or chicken pellets you can do this in Spring and again in Summer.

**Yew Hedging **
There is nothing more stately and quintessentially British than a yew hedge. There are several forms of Taxus but only really Baccata are mass grown for evergreen hedging. They are a little slow growing, so buy as big as you can afford, but once established they make a perfect formal hedge. The foliage is a lovely dark green, very dense and the plant can be clipped to any shape of height. There is a flush of growth in spring and a second smaller flush in late summer. The new growth is much lighter green and matures to the darker green with age. In winter, and on the female bushes, the classic red, squidgy yew berries are an important winter feed for birds. These should be pointed out to small children as the seeds could make them ill if eaten.
Clipping Yew can be kept in check with a pair of shears or a hedge cutter and is best done on a cool day in summer between the two growth flushes.
Dislikes They do not like being stood in wet soil, so if you have wet ground and want to establish a yew hedge, sort the drainage out first. Apart from that they are easy to get growing in all soils and situations. Feeding Yew hedging Give them plenty of organic fertilizer in early spring to get them to the height. Once they have reached your desired height a light feed of fish, blood and bone will keep them looking green. Any other general-purpose plant food is fine, but always read the label and under feed rather than over feed


Hawthorn Hedging
When you’re after a plant that can serve as a practical and natural screen hedge, while at the same time providing a striking aesthetic feature to your garden, our traditional English hawthorn hedge could be exactly what you’re looking for. This stunning garden planter makes for a beautiful yet prickly hedge that will not only enhance the look of any garden, but also provide the ideal intruder-deterrent for your outdoor space. Native to the UK, hawthorn hedge plants are synonymous with their glossy green leaves, cream fragrant flowers and dark red berries. If you are looking to attract wildlife to your garden, hawthorn is the ideal hedge planter. Planting your hawthorn Initially it’s worth using a rigid tree stake in order to fully support the young plant and protect it against strong winds. Once this is done, simply apply an all-purpose granular feed such as chicken pellets and water well. When it comes to soil, hawthorn plants are not too particular and they thrive in most soil types including chalky and alkaline rich soil. Unlike many hedge plants, hawthorn actually prefers wet or moist conditions. These plants are very versatile and flourish when planted in full view of the sun or in partial shade, but they can also survive in sheltered and shady locations, making them suitable for all landscapes. Looking after your hawthorn hedge Hawthorn, or quickthorn as it is commonly known, are very low maintenance plants which need little attention once they are established. This means that usually, hawthorns only require cutting back once or twice a year, and only to remove dead growth or to thin out overly bushy areas. However, it’s important to remember, pruning a hawthorn too early in its development could stunt growth and damage the shrub. These plants should only be pruned once they have had time to fully mature and are at a height of at least 4ft. Also, this should only be done during the winter months when the hedge is dormant.


**Elaeagnus Hedging**
Are not your normal hedge choice when you think of buying a new hedge. It is time that they should be thought of some more as they make lovely hedges.
Elaeagnus are mainly evergreen with some varieties being deciduous. They have simple often scaly foliage which can be green in colour, some varieties are green rimmed with yellow and vice a versa. An extra bonus to this hedger is the lovely scents of the blossom. It requires very little pruning as it is mainly grown as a loose hedge rather than a tightly knitted one as its foliage is a larger size. Simply prune to shape and cut off any unwanted branches. Elaeagnus really doesn't like to be planted in shallow chalk soil, other than that it can tolerate pretty much everything else, it is even drought tolerant and is very tough, even likes clay once they have established in the ground. Can be fed with a general purpose feed or you can mulch to offer food as well, this can be done in spring and again in summer.

**Laurel Hedging**

If you want an evergreen screen or privacy in a hurry, these are for you! Laurels are an extremely popular species made up of numerous trees, shrubs and hedging plants. Their practicality and aesthetic appearance come second to none as they are seen in thousands of gardens throughout the UK. Each type of laurel has a unique set of characteristics. That can be utilised to help you achieve a range of gardening goals. With an abundance of practical advantages, added interest and ability to grow in challenging environments, Laurel hedging should certainly be a major contender when considering garden hedge ideas. A Laurel hedge will need trimming at least twice a year, we would suggest using secateurs as it keeps the plants looking tidy or for a quick ob trimmers can also be used. They are quite easy to maintain you should trim your laurel hedge in late spring or early summer as the hedge will produce new shoots very quickly at this time of year which is great as it will cover up any leaves that are left looking “tatty” after using a hedge trimmer. Cherry laurels will tolerate most conditions with the exception of wet and chalky soils and they will thrive in sun or shade, so they are perfect to plant in any part of your garden! Cherry laurels will not thrive very well in wet or chalky soils. With chalky or clay soils the drainage is very poor and cherry laurels cannot sit in wet, poor drained soil. This can cause leaves to turn yellow. No other reason will make the leaves turn yellow so quickly. The roots of a laurel plant will rot if they sit in waterlogged conditions for a long period of time.

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Bare Root Planting Tips

## Elaeagnus or Oleaster
Are not your normal hedge choice when you think of buying a new hedge. It is time that they should be thought of some more as they make lovely hedges.

Elaeagnus are mainly evergreen with some varities being deciduous. They have simple often scaly foliage which can be green in colour, some varities are green rimmed with yellow and vice a versa. An extra bonus to this hedger is the lovely scents of the blossom.

There are a few options to look at for hedging or stand alone shrubs:

Elaeagnus Ebbingei silvery grey foliage with incredibly scented flowers in autumn.

Elaeagnus Limelight has glossy, dark green leaves, silver beneath, centrally marked yellow and pale green. Bears small, fragrant, white flowers in autumn. 

Elaeagnus Vivileg has dark green centred leaves and irregular gold margins, in autumn it bears highly fragrant white flower

## Pruning Elaeagnus
It requires very little pruning as it is mainly grown as a loose hedge rather than a tightly knitted one as its foliage is a larger size. Simply prune to shape and cut off any unwanted branches.

## Dislikes
Elaeagnus really doesn't like to be planted in shallow chalk soil, other than that it can tolerate pretty much everything else, it is even drought tolerant and is very tough, even likes clay once they have established in the ground. 

## Feeding Elaeagnus
Can be fed with a general purpose feed or you can mulch to offer food as well, this can be done in spring and again in summer.

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Elaeagnus Hedging Information

We have put together different aspects of the garden and come up with a mixture of shrubs and perennials to give you some creative ideas. 

**Plants Suitable For Heavy Shade** - you can still have beautiful flowers and borders even in a shadey garden.

Aucuba
Camellia Japonica
Elaeagnus
Euonymus
Ilex
Leucothoe
Ligustrum
Mahonia
Rhododendron
Sarcococca
Skimmia
Anemone
Astrantia
Bergenia
Epimedium
Helleborus

**Plants Suitable for North and East facing Walls** - you always think of cold, shadey borders when you see north and east facing but with our suggestions you will finally see some colour

Ajuga
Berberis
Camellias (North walls only)
Chaenomeles
Choisya
Euonymus
Garrya
Mahonia
Photinia
Digitalis
Hosta
Akebia

**Plants Suitable for Cold Exposed Areas** - these tend to be the gardens that don't have any hedges or walls to protect the garden and also costal gardens as well


Armeria
Aubretia
Centaurea
Betula
Crataegus
Cotinus
Elaeagnus
Kalmia
Mahonia
Pachysandra
Philadelphus
Rhododendron
Cryptomeria
Ginkgo
Picea
Taxus
Thuja
Tsuga

**Plants Suitable for Industrial Areas** - this selection of plants are suitable for the built up areas that have quite a bit smog

Aucuba
Aesculus
Amelanchier
Azaleas (decidious)
Berberis
Carpinus
Camellia
Chaenomeles
Cytisus
Escallonia
Euonymus
Philadelphus
Rhododendron
Viburnum

**Plants Suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slight acidic)**- these tend to be quite hard to did and plant in and can also hold water

Aucuba
Abies
Berberis
Carpinus
Choisya
Corylus
Forsythia
Hamamelis
Juniperus
Magnolia
Rhododendron
Viburnum
Aster
Aquilegia
Hemerocalis
Peony
Rudbeckia
Aconitum
Aruncus
Delphinium

**Plants Suitable for Dry Acidic Soils** - this is where the soil tends to be dry as it can't hold any moisture and is rich and acidic (normally where rhododendrons and conifers live)

Betula
Berberis
Cercis
Cistus
Cotoneaster
Hibiscus
Juniperus
Lonicera
Pinus
Lilium
Thalictrum
Meconopsis

**Plants Suitable for Shallow Soil Over Chalk** - not much room for plants with roots that go quite deep

Aucuba
Berberis
Buxus
Carpinus
Ceanothus
Cistus
Cotoneaster
Euonymus
Fagus
Forsythia
Laurus
Philadelphus
Potentilla
Sarcococca
Vinca
Weigelia
Yucca

**Plants Tolerant of Both Extreme Acidity and Alkalinity** - a good all rounder that can take both types of soil

Crataegus
Fagus
Ligustrum
Taxus

**Plants Suitable for Damp Sites** - this is where the soil really holds the water and can sometimes sit slightly wet

Amelanchier
Cornus
Phyllostachys
Pseudosasa
Sambucus
Salix
Taxodium
Metasequoia

aubuaCroto40L_jpg.webp

Right Plant For The Right Place

Root Ball Hedging

When planting a new hedge, root ball is a great option.

Root balled hedging is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much faster than grown in containers. Root balls are dug from October but you can order them now. We will advise you on the optimum timing of the start of digging. You can trust us, and we can work together to get you the best chance possible for success. If the Balls cannot be dug and dispatched within a few days, as a further insurance they don't dry out, we pot them into compost to keep the balls nice and damp. If you are ready to roll as soon as digging starts, we offer a special-pre-order discount to take them straight from the field. That way we save on handling them, and you gain the opportunity to get them extra fresh and the ability to drop them straight into warm soil giving them a head start. You always lose one or two to transport shock, so you should allow for the possibility of buying replacements if you do lose any, but it's well worth the risk as the same plants pot grown are far more money and you need more of them to achieve the same result.  The following are a few tips that should help you minimise this risk.  We do not offer guarantees with plants, so read up as much as you can and you should have great success.


Planting Root Balls

Keep the sacking on them as the roots will grow through it and the sacking is biodegradable.
Dig the hole like normal, making sure the soil is nice and loose, so the water can drain through.
Place the plant in the hole making sure it is upright, placing the root ball, so it is level with the ground - not too low and not too high - back fill with the soil or compost firming it down to make sure there is good contact with the soil in your garden.
Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind, if this is going to happen then you should secure the plant with a stake and a suitable tie.
Give it a good soaking at the base, not all over the leaves, and keep it moist, not soaking wet, for the next growing season.  It's not necessary to water the plants when it is raining every day, but if there is no real natural water for a week or so then give them a good soak two or three times a week with a bucket of water each. When they have been in for a week or two, just before you water them, have a feel alongside the new plants, down to base of the rootball to see how dry or wet it feels. If you can squeeze water out of a fist full of soil they are too wet. As soon as they are growing away nicely you reduce the watering to a visual look at the plants and they will look thirsty when they need a good soak. A month to six weeks after planting you should be able to relax the watering right off.  If you leave planting your rootballed stock late in the season, say March, then you may need to step up the water to every day for the first 2 weeks especially if those drying east winds are happening.  If you are concerned ask one of our experts. 

On certain hedging types such as Yew, then its wise to water the foliage as well, this will help prevent the foliage from dessicating in strong winds


You must keep away any unwanted grass and weeds from the new plants as they will take all the moisture and food.


We supply the Vitax Q4 Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi, this is excellent and is also recommended by the RHS. It can be used once the hole has been dug and you are about to put the Root Ball plants into the ground. Its a good way to help the plants get off to the best start possible

 

 

### When planting a new hedge, root ball is a great option.

Root balled hedging is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much fatter than grown in containers. Root balls are dug from October but you can order them now. We will advise you on the optimum timing of the start of digging. You can trust us and we can work together to get you the best chance possible for success. If the Balls can not be dug and dispatched within a few days, as a further insurance they don't dry out, we pot them into compost to keep the balls nice and damp. If you are ready to roll as soon as digging starts we offer a special pre-order discount to take them straight from the field. That way we save on handling them and you gain the opportunity to get them extra fresh and the ability to drop them straight into warm soil giving them a head start. You always lose one or two to transport shock, so you should allow for the possibility of buying replacements if you do lose any, but it's well worth the risk as the same plants pot grown are far more money and you need more of them to achieve the same result.  The following are a few tips that should help you minimise this risk.  We do not offer guarantees with plants, so read up as much as you can and you should have great success.

**Planting Root Balls**

To plant the root balls,

Keep the sacking on them as the roots will grow through it and the sacking is biodegradable.

Dig the hole like normal, making sure the soil is nice and loose, so the water can drain through.

Place the plant in the hole making sure it is upright, placing the root ball, so it is level with the ground - not too low and not too high - back fill with the soil or compost firming it down to make sure there is good contact with the soil in your garden.

Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind, if this is going to happen then you should secure the plant with a stake and a suitable tie.

Give it a good soaking at the base, not all over the leaves, and keep it moist, not soaking wet, for the next growing season.  It's not necessary to water the plants when it is raining every day, but if there is no real natural water for a week or so then give them a good soak two or three times a week with a bucket of water each. When they have been in for a week or two, just before you water them, have a feel alongside the new plants, down to base of the rootball to see how dry or wet it feels. If you can squeeze water out of a fist full of soil they are too wet. As soon as they are growing away nicely you reduce the watering to a visual look at the plants and they will look thirsty when they need a good soak. A month to six weeks after planting you should be able to relax the watering right off.  If you leave planting your rootballed stock late in the season, say March, then you may need to step up the water to every day for the first 2 weeks especially if those drying east winds are happening.  If you are concerned ask one of our experts. 

You must keep away any unwanted grass and weeds from the new plants as they will take all the moisture and food.

We now supply the Empathy Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi, this is excellent and is also recommended by the RHS. It can be used once the hole has been dug and you are about to put the Root Ball plants into the ground. Its a good way to help the plants get off to the best start possible.

When planting a new hedge, root ball is a great option.

Root balled hedging is a great way to get large hedging plants for less of an outlay. They are dug from the fields where they grow much faster than grown in containers. Root balls are dug from October but you can order them now. We will advise you on the optimum timing of the start of digging. You can trust us, and we can work together to get you the best chance possible for success. If the Balls cannot be dug and dispatched within a few days, as a further insurance they don't dry out, we pot them into compost to keep the balls nice and damp. If you are ready to roll as soon as digging starts, we offer a special-pre-order discount to take them straight from the field. That way we save on handling them, and you gain the opportunity to get them extra fresh and the ability to drop them straight into warm soil giving them a head start. You always lose one or two to transport shock, so you should allow for the possibility of buying replacements if you do lose any, but it's well worth the risk as the same plants pot grown are far more money and you need more of them to achieve the same result.  The following are a few tips that should help you minimise this risk.  We do not offer guarantees with plants, so read up as much as you can and you should have great success.


Planting Root Balls

Keep the sacking on them as the roots will grow through it and the sacking is biodegradable.
Dig the hole like normal, making sure the soil is nice and loose, so the water can drain through.
Place the plant in the hole making sure it is upright, placing the root ball, so it is level with the ground - not too low and not too high - back fill with the soil or compost firming it down to make sure there is good contact with the soil in your garden.
Once planted you should ensure the plant is not going to rock in the wind, if this is going to happen then you should secure the plant with a stake and a suitable tie.
Give it a good soaking at the base, not all over the leaves, and keep it moist, not soaking wet, for the next growing season.  It's not necessary to water the plants when it is raining every day, but if there is no real natural water for a week or so then give them a good soak two or three times a week with a bucket of water each. When they have been in for a week or two, just before you water them, have a feel alongside the new plants, down to base of the rootball to see how dry or wet it feels. If you can squeeze water out of a fist full of soil they are too wet. As soon as they are growing away nicely you reduce the watering to a visual look at the plants and they will look thirsty when they need a good soak. A month to six weeks after planting you should be able to relax the watering right off.  If you leave planting your rootballed stock late in the season, say March, then you may need to step up the water to every day for the first 2 weeks especially if those drying east winds are happening.  If you are concerned ask one of our experts. 

On certain hedging types such as Yew, then its wise to water the foliage as well, this will help prevent the foliage from dessicating in strong winds


You must keep away any unwanted grass and weeds from the new plants as they will take all the moisture and food.


We supply the **Vitax Q4 Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi**, this is excellent and is also recommended by the RHS. It can be used once the hole has been dug and you are about to put the Root Ball plants into the ground. Its a good way to help the plants get off to the best start possible

laurelcroprb150-180_1_jpg.webp

Root Ball Planting Tips 

## Pests

Plants affected: 
Normally a greenhouse pest, does enjoy fuchsias and tomatoes

Symptoms: 
Clouds of tiny white triangular moths are found on the underside of leaves. Black sooty mould may also be seen on the leaves

Control: 
Resistant to most pesticides, best to use organics methods such as biological control or yellow sticky traps. Bright yellow plants could be planted with other vulnerable, but less valuable plants which can act as a decoy



## Blackfly


Plants affected:
Broad bean shoots, elder bushes, dahlia flower stems

Symptoms:
large black greenfly cluster round the tips of shoots


Control:
Nip the tip of shoots out as soon as you notice this infestation, spray with a soft soap or a pesticide that contains pirimicarb



## Greenfly


Plants affected:
All sorts

Symptoms:
Infestations of green, pink, cream and brown insects around the softest part of the plant, new growth tips and young tender leaves.

Control:
Pinch off using your fingertips, spray with a soft soap, or use a pesitcide with pirimicarb



## Scale Insects


Plants affected: 
Green house plants, especially ones with really thick, waxy evergreen leaves

Symptoms: 
Tiny limpets cling to the stems or undersides of leaves

Control:
Wipe off with cotton buds and methylated spirit, then wash the leaf with tepid water and remove the sooty mould



## Red Spider Mite


Plants affected:
Mainly greenhouse or indoor pot plants.

Symptoms:
Pale buff coloured speckles on the leaves. A bad infestation will be indicated by fine webs around shoots and on young leaves

Control:
Very difficult even with chemicals. If greenhouse plants are effected, spray down the area to create a damp atmosphere which the spider mite will not thrive in. Or use plant oils or fatty acids on edibles or an insecticide containing bifenthrin on ornamentals.



## Vine Weevil


Plants affected: 
shrubs, small trees, and some house plants

Symptoms:
Semi circle shaped notches along the margins of leaves caused by the female adults. No male adults are known to exsist. The larvae feed on the roots of the plants. These are cream coloured grubs, about .5cm long with a brown mouth part. Most plant damage is caused by this grub, as they will feed on the plant's root system, eventually killing the plant.

Control:
If you want yo use a chemical it needs to contain the ingredient thiacloprid. An organic method would be to remove and destroy newly pupated adults to reduce the number of egg laying adults, use netting and fleeces to prevent the flightless adults from moving, or use commercially available nematodes such as heterorhabditis that can be watered into the soil to control vine weevil larvae



## Mealy Bug


Plants affected: 
Infest greenhouse or house plants, some outdoor plants such as phormiums. Mealy bugs feed on leaf sap, which they suck through a tubular mouth part.

Symptoms:
Wilted, stunted and dehydrated plants that may be loosing their leaves. The foilage normally becomes sticky with honeydew that can harbour dark sooty mould. You will be able to spot the mealy bugs at the base of the plant.

Control:
Remove any leaves or shoots that are affected by the bugs, or a chemicals such as natural fatty acids or a chemical containing surefactant based products



## Slugs and Snails


Plants affected: 
they feed on a wide range of plants eating any part

Symptoms: 
They leave a silvery slime trail and eat young plant parts, the leaves and flower buds, they tend to hide under foliage and in dark, damp crevices.

Control:
Use copper rings around the perimeter of susceptible plants, a sharp textured mulch such as crushed egg shells can help. Slugs and snails are attracted to beer, so place beer traps near to target plants. If you want to use a chemical select one which contains copper sulphate, aluminium sulphate or metaldehyde


## Wooly Aphids


Plants affected:
Apples, cotoneaster, hawthorn, pyracantha and sorbus

Symptoms:
Fluffy white, waxy aphids cause swellings on branches, if the swellings spilt open in winter, infections can set in and cause canker

Control:
Blast off the fluffy sticky aphids with a high speed jet of water, this won't cure the problem long term. Can spray with chemicals that contain bifenthrin or thiacloprid the moment you spot any aphids, small numbers are easier tackled than letting them multiply



## Aphids


Plants affected
: Most plants attract aphids

Symptoms: 
There are many different aphids, but they all tend to attack young sappy growth first, Early indications are that leaves curl up, growth becomes stunted and the plant weakens and, in severe, untreated cases, can die. They starve the plant by covering the leaves with a sticky residue which attracts sooty moulds. The leaf cannot photosynthesise and becomes starved of energy.

Control:
You can use soap sprays, but for this to work it must come into contact with the pests. Or use a chemical which contains Bifenthrin and again, spray directly onto the pest



## Whitefly


Plants affected:
Normally a greenhouse pest, does enjoy fuchsias and tomatoes

Symptoms:
Clouds of tiny white triangular moths are found on the underside of leaves. Black sooty mould may also be seen on the leaves

Control:
Resistant to most pesticides, best to use organics methods such as biological control or yellow sticky traps. Bright yellow plants could be planted with other vulnerable, but less valuable plants which can act as a decoy

snails-slugs_1_jpg.webp

Common Plant Pests

## Rust

Plants affected: The most affected are broad beans, roses, fuchsia and hollyhocks

Symptoms: Patches of irregular discoloration on the foliage and stems. On close inspection these are circular and tend to be dark orange, brown, yellow or red spots on the undersides of the leaves

Control: Remove infected material and burn or dispose of. Do not compost. Make regular check-ups to catch it early. If you want to use a chemical, select one containing mancozeb, penconazole or flutriafol.



## Coral Spot

Plants affected: Tends to affect broadleaf trees and shrubs, for example Acer, Fagus, and Carpinus. This fungus only attacks dead plant material. 
 
Symptoms: Small coral orange/pink raised spots that form after the branch has died. Dieback occurs and if the infection spreads down to the crown the whole plant may die 
 
Control: Prune out all the dead and dying branches cutting back into healthy stems, dispose of the rubbish to prevent the fungus from spreading. There is no chemical control 



## Mould

Plants affected: Most fruits and vegetables, ornamentals, shrubs and trees

Symptoms: Infects all top-growth parts of the plant which are usually stressed as a result of drought or nutrient deficiency. A common sign is grey mould on leaves, stems and flower buds. Before the mould appears, there could be dead brown patches on the leaves and rotting on some of the plant stems.

Control: Remove all dead and damaged plant material before it becomes infected. Begin a programme of watering and feeding and isolate infected plants if possible. You can use a chemical containing myclobutanil or penconazole



## Black Spot

Plants affected: Can be found on shrubs and roses

Symptoms: Leaves are marked with purple or brownish black spots that turn yellow and cause premature leaf drop. Smaller spots can also discolour the stems and after a while the plant will weaken

Control: Affected leaves must be promptly destroyed along with any stems that show signs of infection. The best way to prevent black spot is to lay a thick mulch around the plants. This helps to lock the moisture in the ground and reducing evaporation of moisture from around the roots. Spray with a fungicide containing myclobutanil fortnightly from early Spring, just as the new foliage emerges


## Canker


Plants affected: Can find it on apples, pears, rowan, beech and other broad-leaved trees. Spread is by rain splash.

Symptoms: Leafless shoots or twigs with sparse, small foliage. Bark that is sunken or distorted. Stems can be cracked and swollen and bear small red or white pustules

Control: During dry conditions only, use clean, sharp secateurs to prune out the infected area to new healthy growth, making sure that you sterilise the secateurs after each cut to minimise spread. Thoroughly clean the secateurs when you have finished. Spraying fungicides containing myclobutanil and mancozeb during Spring and Summer.



## Clematis Wilt

Plants affected: Found on clematis, usually the large, flowered cultivars. 

Symptoms: The top of a clematis plant suddenly wilts, collapses and dies back. The problem quickly spreads down through the plant. Wilt spreads from a leaf, the stalk turns black. It is caused by a fungus that enters through a wound on soft growth made by plant ties or insects. It spreads by water splash. 

Control: Cut back affected stems to healthy growth, even if it means cutting below ground level. Clear away all infected parts and mulch around where the new shoots will appear. The clematis should send up fresh new shoots. If the problem returns, replant deeply in rich fertile, well-drained soil, mulch the area with slate or gravel to keep it cool 

rust_1_jpg.webp

Common Shrub Disease

Height cm               Height Feet          Height Metres
5cm 		                0.1 feet 		                              0.05 metres
15cm 		               0.4 feet 		                          0.15 metres
25cm		0.8 feet		0.25 metres
35cm 		1.1 feet 		0.35 metres
45cm 		1.4 feet		0.45 metres
55cm 		1.8 feet 		0.55 metres
65cm 		2.1 feet		0.65 metres
75cm 		2.4 feet		0.75 metres
85cm 		2.7 feet 		0.85 metres
95cm 		3.1 feet 		0.95 metres
105cm 		3.4 feet		1.05 metres
115cm 		3.7 feet 		1.15 metres
125cm 		4.1 feet 		1.25 metres
135cm 		4.4 feet 		1.35 metres
145cm 		4.7 feet 		1.45 metres
155cm 		5.0 feet		1.55 metres
165cm 		5.4 feet 		1.65 metres
175cm 		5.7 feet 		1.75 metres
185cm 		6.0 feet 		1.85 metres
195cm 		6.3 feet 		1.95 metres
205cm 		6.7 feet 		2.05 metres
215cm 		7.0 feet 		2.15 metres
225cm 		7.3 feet 		2.25 metres
235cm 		7.7 feet		2.35 metres
245cm 		8.0 feet 		2.45 metres
255cm 		8.3 feet 		2.55 metres
265cm 		8.6 feet 		2.65 metres
275cm 		9.0 feet 		2.75 metres
285cm 		9.3 feet 		2.85 metres
295cm 		9.6 feet 		2.95 metres
305cm 		10.0 feet		3.05 metres
315cm 		10.3 feet 		3.15 metres
325cm 		10.6 feet 		3.25 metres
335cm 		10.9 feet 		3.35 metres
345cm 		11.3 feet 		3.45 metres
355cm 		11.6 feet 		3.55 metres

Plant Help & Advice

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